winter climbing:

Ben nevis & cic hut

A guided trip to the north face of Ben Nevis where we will climb classic ice and mixed routes up to grade V.

Two nights in the CIC hut and three days in the mountain with access to climbing straight out of the the door from the UK's only alpine style hut.

3 DAY COURSE

PRICES: £750pp

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COURSE OVERVIEW

A guided climbing trip to the north face of Ben Nevis, the crown jewel of Scottish Winter Climbing and home to some of the most classic routes.

Over three days in the mountains we will climb classic ice and mixed routes up to Scottish Grade V, based from the historic Charles Inglis Clark Memorial Hut (CIC Hut) - the UK’s only true alpine-style climbing hut.

With routes starting almost directly from the door, this trip maximises climbing time and immersion in one of the most atmospheric mountain environments in Britain.

COURSE OUTLINE

Although primarily a guided climbing trip, there will be coaching and development throughout.

Skills may include:

Winter Climbing Movement

Efficient movement on steep snow and ice

Mixed climbing techniques

Use of front points and technical tools

Ropework & Climbing Systems

Belay techniques for winter climbing

Route management and rope efficiency

Building anchors in winter terrain

Mountain Decision Making

Assessing snow and ice conditions

Choosing appropriate routes

Managing hazards on big winter faces

Efficiency in Big Mountain Terrain

Moving quickly and safely in winter conditions

Energy management during long climbs

Planning descents and escape options

ACCOMMODATION - CIC HUT

We will spend two nights in the CIC Hut, situated directly beneath the north face of Ben Nevis.

The hut is a simple alpine-style climbers hut with:

Kitchen and cooking facilities
Sleeping platforms
Drying room
Running water

All food and equipment must be carried to the hut from the North Face car park (around 2–3 hours walk)

WHAT TO EXPECT:

During the trip we aim to climb several classic winter routes depending on conditions. These may include ice gullies, mixed ridges, and technical winter lines.

Typical days involve:

Early starts from the hut to get prime position on busy/classic routes
Short approaches to the base of routes
Long multi-pitch climbs in winter
Summit finishes on the highest mountain in the UK
Mountaineering descents via the mountain track or neighbouring gullies

Being based in the CIC Hut allows quick access to many routes, reducing approach times and maximising time spent climbing.

EXAMPLE ITINERARY

Day 1 – Approach & First Climb

Meet in Fort William/North Face car park
Walk in to the CIC Hut
Conditions briefing
Afternoon climb

Day 2 – Big Route Day

Early start from the hut
Full day climbing on the North Face
Possible Grade III–V route depending on conditions/objectives

Day 3 – Final Climb & Walk Out

Full day climbing from the hut
Pack up and descend to the valley in the late afternoon

Routes and objectives will always be chosen based on weather, avalanche conditions and the ability of the group.

WHAT YOU NEED:

You will need to wear suitable clothing for winter mountaineering, including a full set of waterproofs, warm layers, hat & gloves, ski goggles and winter mountaineering boots.

These boots should be rigid and rated to B2/B3 standard (we can advise during the booking stage).

Boots can be hired from LDM, subject to sizes and availability of our stocks.

We can provide crampons, ice axes, helmets and other technical equipment.

For the hut, you will need:

Sleeping bag
Food for two evenings and two breakfasts
Lunches and snacks for three climbing days
Personal toiletries
Headtorch with spare batteries

Water is available at the hut and there are cooking facilities and all supplies must be carried in.

WHO IS THIS COURSE FOR?

This course is for those that are:

Comfortable seconding Scottish Grade II/III winter climbs
Have experience using crampons and two technical ice tools
Be confident moving on steep snow and mixed terrain with some prior winter mountain experience
Have a good level of mountain fitness

Suitable for ages 18+

You should have prior experience of winter hillwalking, including the use of crampons and an ice axe, and be confident moving on snow-covered terrain.

Some rope-work knowledge (such as from summer scrambling or summer trad climbing) is needed to get the most from these days.

Ideally, you’ll have completed a winter mountaineering course or spent time in the mountains in winter conditions.

A good level of mountain fitness is important, as the days will be physically demanding and spent on steep, technical ground in challenging weather.

TBC 2027

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